Time is flying by… already on our third day in Tuscany. We shuttled to Gaiole to begin our 7.2 mile hike–long and the uphills (we gained a total of 1311 feet) were steep, rocky and difficult. But all of the beautiful scenery was worth it. We hiked through olive, oak and pine forests and along vineyards.
We learned the significance of the black rooster (Gallo nero) which is prominently displayed all over Chianti and particularly is the symbol of both the Chianti region and good Chianti wine, Chianti Classico. There was bloody fighting for years between Siena and Florence for territorial dominance. Legend has it that to establish a peaceful coexistence and resolve the border dispute between the two, each chose a knight to walk from their country toward the other when the cock crowed. Where they met was to help establish the border. Siena chose a white rooster and fed it well so it would be fresh and loud the next day. Florence chose a black cockerel and kept it hungry. Long before daybreak the hungry black cockerel crowed and woke the knight who began his trek long before the white rooster crowed. They met just miles from Siena, thus establishing the Tuscan border. The black rooster has been a symbol of the area since that time.
After our hike we met at an agriturismo, Le Frashette, where we were entertained by Frabrizio who explained the balsamic vinegar making process and gave a demonstration of the making of panzanella–a Tuscan bread and vegetable salad. We tasted the 12 and 25 year vinegars on parmesan cheese and gelato with blueberries…yum! Real balsamic vinegar, aged for at least 12 years is a balsamic reduction. Most balsamic vinegars we get at our grocery stores, are “a recipe” and not made in the traditional way. After our demonstration, we had a tasty lunch made by Nonna and her daughter and set off (uphill) toward downtown Radda, where we shopped…I will likely need another suitcase to get me home.
We walked to Casa Chianti Classico which is housed in a beautiful old abby. This lovely space is home to the Consortium (est. 1924) who protects and promotes the Chianti Classico Gallo Nero Brand. The consortium represents 480 producers, 342 who market their own wine under the Black rooster label. Another cooking demonstration (in the ancient kitchen) was included with our dinner in the monks’ dining room –eggplant parmigiana.
It was another lovely day in the Chianti region of Tuscany. Tomorrow we leave Chianti for Val d’Orcia.
Nancy
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I wanted to let you know that Sue Sherwin had unexpected hip surgery yesterday. I’m sure she is sore as the Devil! Your walking trips, and culinary adventures sound very interesting.
I hope you are putting all your travels together to one day, write a book.
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