Les Baux

The mistral has arrived in St. Remy.  It is a cold northwesterly wind that accelerates as it passes through the Rhone Valley on its way to the Gulf of Lion in the Mediterranean.  We have had 20-30 mph winds all of today and expect the same tomorrow.  As I write this, the wind is blowing across the chimney I’m sitting in front of and it sounds like a hurricane.

Our first stop on the way from St. Remy to Les Baux was Moulin Castelas (Huile D’Olive De La Valle Des Baux de Provence). Today, Domaine Castelas produces olives on 110 acres of Appellation d’Origine Protégée groves in the Vallée des Baux de Provence. We have been to this olive grove and mill (actually their excellent gift shop) every time we’ve come to Provence.

We felt the cold wind whenever we were outside but it was very strong up on the mountain where we walked around Les Baux. It took us about 10 cold minutes with the wind swirling around us to get to the Carriere de Lumiere event.  Always one of the highlights of our trip, this will not be the last time (even this week) that we see this amazing show.  Be sure to check out information on their website (click on the link above)–it’ll give you an idea of the size of this venue and the amazing show.  This year the show is titled Van Gogh, Starry Night.  Vincent Van Gogh painted more than 2000 paintings in the last ten years of his life. He is one of my favorite painters and I hope to be inspired, as he was, by the warm and bright colors of Provence. The digital immersion experience of paintings, projected onto the 15 meter high walls, floors and the ceiling of the limestone cave

are sometimes set to life (crows flying, water rippling, flower petals from almond trees floating in the breeze) by these amazing digital artists and are accompanied by different genres of music including Janis Joplin singing “Kozmic Blues”, several operas and classical concertos, and Nina Simone singing “Don’t let me be misunderstood.”

I nearly cried as the painting of his entry to the Asylum near Saint Remy appeared with the song that begins,”I’m just a man whose intentions are good.  Oh, Lord, please don’t let me be misunderstood.”  That song played while selected paintings that he completed during his time in St. Remy lit up the cave walls.  He was such a tortured soul and it certainly shows in his self portraits.  What a beautiful experience!

We left the limestone parking lot we found for the Van Gogh event and drove closer to the small medieval village of Les Baux–everything at Les Baux is either uphill or downhill but we have found lunch spots like Varieties (our spot for today) that we repeatedly enjoy.  And, a little shopping is always in order–Allan bought some soap for the shower, Connie found truffle powder, Clay purchased good balsamic vinegar, and I left with a very soft and tightly woven shawl (wore it all day)!`

Taking the long way home from St. Remy, we drove through nearby Mouries  (the leading olive oil producer in France) and twisted and turned on the loopy mountain roads of the national park between Les Baux and St. Remy. Our final stop for the day was at La Vallongue wine and olive estate.  This place, at the very foot of the Alpilles Mountains was quite manicured and well-kept with a full tasting room and gift shop.

We tasted a few of their featured wines and purchased a couple of bottles to share during cocktail hour.  Dinner was at home and we enjoyed the quiet company and lively conversation with the mistral roaring in the background.

Just another day in Paradise!